Ferrari 550 Buying guide
The Ferrari 550 Maranello is an outstandingly good car, excellent build quality throughout, beautiful subtle looks, a fantastic engine and a great seating position. A wonderful drive whether you drive for 30 or 300 miles, the engine is very flexible with a constant linear power delivery that just gets better and better the higher up the rev range you travel. Being front engine and rear wheel drive this car has fantastic handling and a clear break away which is easy to control when driven hard, however you cannot get away from the fact that this is a heavy GT car and not a mid engine lightweight but driven well is a very rewarding and impressive piece of machinery to own and drive.
Service history is essential to give an accurate picture of the quality of maintenance the vehicle has received, with these cars renowned specialists often give a better quality of service than some main dealers because they actually look after more of them. There are ways of showing if a car has done more miles than indicated but leave this to a professional, cars without a documented service history should really be avoided unless they are very good value and you intend to keep it a long time to re-build a confidence in the car for resale. Make sure the service book has its first page (not torn out) with chassis numbers clearly marked and showing the original supplying dealer stamp. All service history's on these cars should be supported by a well documented history file with bills and receipts for work carried out, old tax discs and MOTS to prove what year each mileage was done and whether the car has been unused for several years.
Gearbox is lovely and probably one of the best meaty changes that there is, however the early 1997 / 1998 cars did have a problem which is identified by the gear box not wanting to select the forward gears in the gate (1st,3rd and 5th) the gear lever should come to rest centre of the gearbox - in line with 3rd and 4th and should never jump out of gear when accelerating, lifting or pressing the clutch. Gearbox rebuilds are expensive.
Trim quality is very high, Electric seats don't usually give any trouble but check them anyway, the outer beading on the seats can go a little wavey (wonkey) along the outer edge where you get in and out this is quite usual beginning to show on cars with around 30k miles and getting quite established by 40k miles +. Steering wheel adjustment should lock tight and not drop when pulled. The glove box compartment should close with a slid clunk and should not rattle when closed, if it does the bottom pivot screw has probably been lost and replaced by a not shouldered screw. Becker Stereo units were standard, many have been removed and after market upgrades put in, please watch the leather around the stereo face as it is easily damaged, certain cd and Sat nav units will interfere with gear selection.
Wheels are Magnesium which are hygroscopic (they absorb water) so if the powder coating is cracked or the wheel has been kerbed the coating will be coming away from the wheel itself, this eventually causes the weights to come off. Wheel refurbishment is usual on most Ferrari cars. The Wheel Restorer (please see our proud to recommend page) does all of our refurbishments and comes highly recommended - by us!
Engine servicing is very straight forward, cam belts are easily reached, the main costs float around the amount of oil these engines hold! Its always advisable to check the cam seals as these are prone to weeping and leak oil onto the timing belt, we have even seen a pool of oil in the bottom of the cam cover which the timing belt was running through! Usually rectified at timing belt change but check before purchase. Water leaks in the V of the engine are a re-occurring issue because of the heat in the area, silicone hoses help but expect to have a leak every three to four years which involves removing the fuel injection air chamber at the top of the engine, tightening the hoses and reassembly - its a pain of a job.
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Oil pressure should pick up instantly on start up, their should be no blue smoke. All in all these are tough engines that don't really have a any major problems.
Paintwork on 550's is very good, shut lines should be straight and true. It is quite common to lift the bonnet and see minor flaking on the cover (shroud) from the radiator which can easily be repainted and underneath the bonnet itself - usually minor cosmetic aluminium corrosion but nothing to worry about in most cases.
Mechanical notes Steering racks suffer with play at around 30k miles and require refurbishment - not usually expensive but that will always depend on what else needs attention. Undertray's need secure mountings or they will be pulled down at speed and break at the front. A lot of undertrays are damaged by dealers who cut the louvres out so that they do not have to remove the whole front undertray to drain oils etc which is a shame for ten minutes extra work.
Accessories should include, tyre inflator (in pack), tool kit, Spare keys and three fobs, of which two should be black and one red, its quite usual for the spare fobs to be missing as people loose them in draws etc, as long as you have either the red fob or the Alarm Anti vol slip in the history you can get additional fobs programmed.
Catalytic converters These are quite expensive items for any car, they need checking as a car with either poor cats or cats removed will fail an MOT, however we have also had reports on cars that run without the cats fitted may not be insured as they are not road legal, for the potential 5% of extra breathing capacity - its just not worth it.
source: http://www.walkersport.co.uk/550-buying-coming-soon.htm
Ferrari Service and Repair, Race Car, Street Car Prep and Driver Coaching 29203 Arnold Drive, G-2 Sonoma, CA 95476 707-334-3700 angelo.zucchi@gmail.com
Friday, May 31, 2013
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Ferrari 355 Buying Guide - Frank Zucchi Motorsports Sonoma
Ferrari 355's are very beautiful cars that sum up the ethos of the Ferrari marque, they where available in three body styles;
1) Berlinetta
2) GTS (Targa)
3) Spider
To save writing what has been already written very well go to www.the355.com this website is dedicated to the 355 and lists all mechanical and bodywork issues. for further help please contact us direct.
Interior Space, It is always worth considering that the GTS Model roof fits behind the seats when removed, if you are over 6ft tall you will need to move your seat forward to accommodate it, which on long journeys can be a little uncomfortable, The Spider roof mechanism also folds behind the seats however its less intrusive than the GTS and the seats are smaller, We recommend that you sit in both before making a decision or setting your heart on a particular model.
Service history is essential to give an accurate picture of the quality of maintenance the vehicle has received, with these older cars renowned specialists often give a better quality of service than certain main dealers because they actually look after more of them. There are ways of showing if a car has done more miles than indicated but leave this to a professional, cars without a documented history should really be avoided unless they are very good value and you intend to keep it a long time to re-build a confidence in the car for resale. Make sure the service book has its first page (not torn out) with chassis numbers clearly marked and showing the original supplying dealer stamp. All service history's on these cars should be supported by a well documented history file with bills and receipts for work carried out, old tax discs and MOTS to prove what year each mileage was done and whether the car has been unused for several years.
Extras These should include, Roof cover, Tool Kit in leather case, Leather wallet for service books, original service pack (Service book, Manual, Alarm and Stereo, Dealership locations, breakdown) and a tyre inflator in its original packaging.
Water! 355 Berlinetta's are pretty water proof, GTS and Spider models in heavy rain can weep a little through the door / windscreen seal (just enough to get a bit of a wet leg) but compared with most convertible or targa cars they are very good.
Servicing costs will vary to whom you use, We carry out cam belt services and lube services for our own cars but for our more serious works we use Shiltech Performance, They are excellent value and will look after your tipo with the right attention to detail and protect your investment so that it maintains its value please visit our proud to recommend page for their details.
Catalytic converters These are quite expensive items for any car, they need checking as a car with either poor cats or cats removed will fail an MOT, however we have also had reports on cars that run without the cats fitted may not be insured as they are not road legal, for the potential 5% of extra breathing capacity - its just not worth it.
Accident Damage make sure that you carry out a HPI check on Finance outstanding and any insurance accident payouts, if a Ferrari has a CAT C or D rating it will considerably affect its value, if you are considering a damaged repaired car it is essential that a Ferrari professional inspects the car for you.
Good luck and enjoy your car, its about your tastes and not your friends, driving is a personal pleasure which expectation differs from each and every person and not necessarily what the loudest person in the pub thinks.
source: http://www.walkersport.co.uk/ferrari-355-buying-guide.htm
Monday, May 27, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - 308 / 328 Buying Guide - Angleo Zucchi Motorsports Sonoma
The Ferrari 308 / 328 is probably the best and most reliable way to own a Ferrari, with its low servicing costs and excellent reliability they really are exceptional value, however, they all suffer from the same issues, none of them major, but it is important to budget correctly when buying a car that needs work or attention. The main concerns are;
Service history is essential to give an accurate picture of the quality of maintenance the vehicle has received, with these older cars renowned specialists often give a better quality of service than certain main dealers because they actually look after more of them. There are ways of showing if a car has done more miles than indicated but leave this to a professional, cars without a documented history should really be avoided unless they are very good value and you intend to keep it a long time to re-build a confidence in the car for resale. Make sure the service book has its first page (not torn out) with chassis numbers clearly marked and showing the original supplying dealer stamp. All service history's on these cars should be supported by a well documented history file with bills and receipts for work carried out, old tax discs and MOTS to prove what year each mileage was done and whether the car has been unused for several years.
Rust is a bigger issue on 308's than 328's because they were not galvanised however the areas to watch are the still the same, these are; 1) The rear part of the front wing below swage line, the inner wheel arch liner rubs and holds moisture which will cause a swelling visible from the outside after a while, not an expensive repair but once it starts to swell you have about 12 to 18 months before it becomes a real issue, watch out for poor repairs using filler and make sure that you feel the thickness of the metal for consistency. 2) The doors can have an issue in several different places, a) the outer edge of the door skin is in line with the front wheels and can get pebble dashed from road stones and grit, an easy repair if it is caught early enough. b) the lower door seal, if corrosion gets in here the repair is more difficult hence costing more to put right. c) If the car has spent a lot of time outside or being used in poor weather conditions rust can occur through the door, above / on the swage line directly below the window guide from inside of the door which is not very well protected, this is a more expensive repair but still not a major problem. 3) Where the front and rear bumpers bolt up-to the steel bodywork (top edge of the swage line) water / moisture can get between the two surfaces and cause damage, you will need to run your finger along the top edge of the swage line, do not worry if it is uneven but you will need to inspect further if it is very rough. 4) Sills are pretty tough but check them all the same, a more common however problem is that the sill has had meeting with a kerb and has a dent usually in the rear 3/4 of its length, you need to get on your knees and look along it, they should be level front to back.
Engines are very tough, Power outputs varying from 214 BHP for a two valve fuel injection car to 270 BHP for a 328, they will take a lot of abuse as long as they are looked after. they should hold 85 PSI at cold start up, which when hot will be about 40 - 45 PSI on tick over, rising again to 85 Psi under load. Oil leaks are quite common either from the cam cover gasket (forward engine bay) probably caused by the heat of the exhaust manifold below it, its a pain to fit and should be done at the next valve clearance service. Cam seals can also leak, usually from sitting cars that have not been used enough, I like to see a car has done 1000 miles a year, (my personal view that these cars should be used and not become museum pieces) These engines can do high miles as long as they are looked after, miles will affect value but not your pleasure!
Gearbox and Clutch the gearbox is a pretty tough item, Expect second to be difficult for the first 10 miles, then it should have a little resistance but go in OK! watch out for the gearstick jumping out in first and reverse gears which shows a badly worn gearbox. Clutches can last 30000 miles plus but make sure the pedal requires a good push before declutching, if the pedal declutches high its probably on its way out.
Extras These should include, Roof cover, Tool Kit, Jack in Roll, Leather wallet and original service pack books and of course a spare wheel (Some are the rare space saver other are full size).
Water! 308's and 328's are pretty water proof (GTS models) in heavy rain they can weep a little through the door / windscreen seal (just enough to get a wet leg) but compared with most convertible or targa cars they very good.
Servicing costs will vary to whom you use, We carry out cam belt services and lube services for our own cars. but we use Stratstone Ferrari our customer cars. They are excellent value and will look after your tipo with the right attention to detail and protect your investment so that it maintains its value please call us for their details.
Accident Damage make sure that you carry out a HPI check on Finance outstanding and any insurance accident payouts, if a Ferrari has a CAT C or D rating it will considerably effect its value, if you are considering a damaged repaired car it is essential that a Ferrari professional inspects the car for you. The front end is prone to the odd knock and it is not very well supported, Lift the front luggage compartment and look down between the pop up lights and the floor, you will see a box section frame that supports the wings, look carefully for any signs of creasing as these supports are rarely changed in an accident. Most of these cars have had new windscreens (they seem to chip quite easily) make sure the outside (external) edges are flush with the bodywork or the metal surround can come out at speed it also can make a noise and the internal rubber bonding is tidy inside - obviously if it does not look like a good fit its time to get a watering can!
Good luck and enjoy your car, its about your tastes and not your friends, driving is a personal pleasure which expectation differs from each and every person and not necessarily what the loudest person in the pub thinks.
source: http://www.walkersport.co.uk/308-328-buying-guide.htm
Service history is essential to give an accurate picture of the quality of maintenance the vehicle has received, with these older cars renowned specialists often give a better quality of service than certain main dealers because they actually look after more of them. There are ways of showing if a car has done more miles than indicated but leave this to a professional, cars without a documented history should really be avoided unless they are very good value and you intend to keep it a long time to re-build a confidence in the car for resale. Make sure the service book has its first page (not torn out) with chassis numbers clearly marked and showing the original supplying dealer stamp. All service history's on these cars should be supported by a well documented history file with bills and receipts for work carried out, old tax discs and MOTS to prove what year each mileage was done and whether the car has been unused for several years.
Rust is a bigger issue on 308's than 328's because they were not galvanised however the areas to watch are the still the same, these are; 1) The rear part of the front wing below swage line, the inner wheel arch liner rubs and holds moisture which will cause a swelling visible from the outside after a while, not an expensive repair but once it starts to swell you have about 12 to 18 months before it becomes a real issue, watch out for poor repairs using filler and make sure that you feel the thickness of the metal for consistency. 2) The doors can have an issue in several different places, a) the outer edge of the door skin is in line with the front wheels and can get pebble dashed from road stones and grit, an easy repair if it is caught early enough. b) the lower door seal, if corrosion gets in here the repair is more difficult hence costing more to put right. c) If the car has spent a lot of time outside or being used in poor weather conditions rust can occur through the door, above / on the swage line directly below the window guide from inside of the door which is not very well protected, this is a more expensive repair but still not a major problem. 3) Where the front and rear bumpers bolt up-to the steel bodywork (top edge of the swage line) water / moisture can get between the two surfaces and cause damage, you will need to run your finger along the top edge of the swage line, do not worry if it is uneven but you will need to inspect further if it is very rough. 4) Sills are pretty tough but check them all the same, a more common however problem is that the sill has had meeting with a kerb and has a dent usually in the rear 3/4 of its length, you need to get on your knees and look along it, they should be level front to back.
Engines are very tough, Power outputs varying from 214 BHP for a two valve fuel injection car to 270 BHP for a 328, they will take a lot of abuse as long as they are looked after. they should hold 85 PSI at cold start up, which when hot will be about 40 - 45 PSI on tick over, rising again to 85 Psi under load. Oil leaks are quite common either from the cam cover gasket (forward engine bay) probably caused by the heat of the exhaust manifold below it, its a pain to fit and should be done at the next valve clearance service. Cam seals can also leak, usually from sitting cars that have not been used enough, I like to see a car has done 1000 miles a year, (my personal view that these cars should be used and not become museum pieces) These engines can do high miles as long as they are looked after, miles will affect value but not your pleasure!
Gearbox and Clutch the gearbox is a pretty tough item, Expect second to be difficult for the first 10 miles, then it should have a little resistance but go in OK! watch out for the gearstick jumping out in first and reverse gears which shows a badly worn gearbox. Clutches can last 30000 miles plus but make sure the pedal requires a good push before declutching, if the pedal declutches high its probably on its way out.
Extras These should include, Roof cover, Tool Kit, Jack in Roll, Leather wallet and original service pack books and of course a spare wheel (Some are the rare space saver other are full size).
Water! 308's and 328's are pretty water proof (GTS models) in heavy rain they can weep a little through the door / windscreen seal (just enough to get a wet leg) but compared with most convertible or targa cars they very good.
Servicing costs will vary to whom you use, We carry out cam belt services and lube services for our own cars. but we use Stratstone Ferrari our customer cars. They are excellent value and will look after your tipo with the right attention to detail and protect your investment so that it maintains its value please call us for their details.
Accident Damage make sure that you carry out a HPI check on Finance outstanding and any insurance accident payouts, if a Ferrari has a CAT C or D rating it will considerably effect its value, if you are considering a damaged repaired car it is essential that a Ferrari professional inspects the car for you. The front end is prone to the odd knock and it is not very well supported, Lift the front luggage compartment and look down between the pop up lights and the floor, you will see a box section frame that supports the wings, look carefully for any signs of creasing as these supports are rarely changed in an accident. Most of these cars have had new windscreens (they seem to chip quite easily) make sure the outside (external) edges are flush with the bodywork or the metal surround can come out at speed it also can make a noise and the internal rubber bonding is tidy inside - obviously if it does not look like a good fit its time to get a watering can!
Good luck and enjoy your car, its about your tastes and not your friends, driving is a personal pleasure which expectation differs from each and every person and not necessarily what the loudest person in the pub thinks.
source: http://www.walkersport.co.uk/308-328-buying-guide.htm
Friday, May 24, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - History of the 1969 Ferrari Dino 246gt - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma
History of the 1968-1976 Ferrari Dino 246 GT
After Ferrari had built and raced a series of six- and eight-cylinder cars under the Dino banner (so named to commemorate Enzo's fallen son), it was inevitable that a road-going car would be built under this name, and in 1968 the gorgeous mid-engined, two-seat Dino 206 GT appeared. Like many Ferraris of the period, the Dino's beautiful body was designed by Pininfarina and produced by Scaglietti, and in this case was aluminum for the entire run of 150 built in late 1968 and 1969. The transverse mounted 2-liter, 160-hp V-6 had an aluminum block as well, built by Fiat.
Production of the 2-liter 206 GT ended in 1969 to make way for the 2.4-liter 246 GT. The 246 GT's coachwork was almost identical to the earlier car, this time in steel, possibly as a result of Ferrari realizing that this car was going to be produced in numbers never before seen by the company. Cast iron replaced aluminum for the new car's engine block, and this motor now made 195 hp initially, and 180 hp for cars sent to the United States.
Enthusiasts generally group the 246s into three broad categories. The first series of 357 built are known as the "L" cars, identifiable by their having the same wheels as the earlier 206 GT. The "M" series cars, of which 507 were built, had Cromodora wheels and a different windshield wiper arrangement. Finally, the "E" series cars appeared in late 1971 and were the most numerous, filling out the balance of the total 3,883 cars built. Included in this final series was the 246 GTS, which incorporated a neat Targa-style removable roof for those who desired an open-air option. "Chairs and Flares" are the most desirable optional equipment for these cars, and the phrase refers to Daytona-style seats and metal flares that widened the bodywork. While these two options typically appeared together, they could be ordered separately as well.
The Ferrari Dino 246 GT's $14,500 MSRP was comparable to the Porsche 911 during the early 1970s, the car it most closely competed with. Since that time, the Dino has appreciated in a way that its German counterpart has yet to see. Furthermore, the Dino’s 2.4-liter V-6 creates a wonderfully entertaining high-RPM scream just a foot behind the driver’s ears, which simply heightens the ownership and driving experience even more. Very impressive for a car that was a "budget" offering when new and wasn’t even deemed worthy of the prancing pony badge.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - The Forgotten Ferrari: The Dino 308GT4 - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma
THE FIAT DINO
In the mid-1960s, the Fédération Internationale de l'Automobile (FIA) set new homologation rules for the 1967 Formula 2 series. For a race car to qualify for Formula 2, at least 500 copies of the engine had to be sold prior to the start of the series. This requirement was a difficult proposition for Ferrari; the company's street-car production was usually numbered in the dozens, not the hundreds. Undaunted, in late 1964 Ferrari approached Italian automaker Fiat and made a deal with its new president, Gianni Agnelli, to mass-produce an updated version of the V6. The engine would be shared by both a new Fiat sports car and a new Ferrari model -- Ferrari's first mid-engine street car. Both would be called "Dino."
By 1965, Enzo had finally, reluctantly relented to the demands for a mid-engine street car. The fact that Lamborghini was about to dazzle the world with the mid-engine Miura may have had something to do with it; Ferrari may not have cared much about street cars, but being one-upped by a rival was another matter. Ferrari decided, however, that the mid-engine car should be a Dino, not a Ferrari. It was a classic Enzo ploy, assuaging his ego by letting him reverse himself without seeming to reverse himself, and allowing him to make a great show of honoring his late son's name, while protecting his own from any negative reactions to the new car.
Pininfarina showed Dino 206 show cars at the Paris show in late 1965 and at Turin in 1966, but these were essentially new bodies on the chassis of the earlier mid-engine sport-racer prototypes, nowhere near ready for production. A more definitive prototype appeared at the 1967 Turin show, but the first Ferrari-built Dino 206 GT didn't go on sale until 1968. Fortunately for Ferrari's Formula 2 plans, the Fiat Dino Spider (also styled by Pininfarina) went on sale in late 1966. It was followed in the spring of 1967 by the bigger, four-seat Fiat Dino Coupe, this one styled by Bertone. Both were popular enough to more than enough to meet the homologation requirements for the engine; Fiat sold 7,651 Fiat Dinos between 1967 and 1972.
By 1965, Enzo had finally, reluctantly relented to the demands for a mid-engine street car. The fact that Lamborghini was about to dazzle the world with the mid-engine Miura may have had something to do with it; Ferrari may not have cared much about street cars, but being one-upped by a rival was another matter. Ferrari decided, however, that the mid-engine car should be a Dino, not a Ferrari. It was a classic Enzo ploy, assuaging his ego by letting him reverse himself without seeming to reverse himself, and allowing him to make a great show of honoring his late son's name, while protecting his own from any negative reactions to the new car.
Pininfarina showed Dino 206 show cars at the Paris show in late 1965 and at Turin in 1966, but these were essentially new bodies on the chassis of the earlier mid-engine sport-racer prototypes, nowhere near ready for production. A more definitive prototype appeared at the 1967 Turin show, but the first Ferrari-built Dino 206 GT didn't go on sale until 1968. Fortunately for Ferrari's Formula 2 plans, the Fiat Dino Spider (also styled by Pininfarina) went on sale in late 1966. It was followed in the spring of 1967 by the bigger, four-seat Fiat Dino Coupe, this one styled by Bertone. Both were popular enough to more than enough to meet the homologation requirements for the engine; Fiat sold 7,651 Fiat Dinos between 1967 and 1972.
FERRARI'S DINO
Ferrari's Dino 206 GT used the same 1,987 cc (122 cu. in.) V6 as the Fiat cars, although it was rated at 180 horsepower (132 kW), rather than the 160 horsepower (117 kW) of the Fiat Dinos. Unlike the earlier prototypes, which had longitudinal (north-south) engines ahead of the rear axle, the production 206 GT's engine was transversely (east-west) mounted, sitting on top of the transaxle and driving it through a series of spur gears. To keep the engine's center of gravity as low as possible, the top of the transaxle case actually formed the engine's sump. All of this made the powertrain far more compact than the earlier efforts, important for a small car with a wheelbase of only 89.7 inches (2,278 mm).
The 2.0 L V6 proved to be less than reliable in civilian hands, with problems with low oil pressure, vapor lock, and plug fouling. In 1969, its displacement was expanded to 2,418 cc (148 cu. in.), and the aluminum block was recast in iron. The 2.4 L engine had more torque than the 2.0 L, making it easier to drive on the street. It was also more durable and cheaper to build, although it was somewhat heavier. Power rose to 180 horsepower (132 kW) for the Fiat version, 195 hp (145 kW) for the Dino, which was renamed Dino 246 GT.
Although cheaper than any contemporary Ferrari, the Dino 246 GT was a very expensive car -- over $14,000, which was around 50% more than the hottest contemporary 911. On the other hand, the new Ferrari flagship, the 365 GTB4 Daytona, cost twenty grand in the States, so the Dino was at least somewhat more attainable. Of course, the Dino had virtues beyond its price. Not only was it fast -- 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in less than 7 seconds, a top speed of around 150 mph (240 kph) -- it was nimble in a way the bulky, front-engine Daytona couldn't match. It was also beautiful, a virtual archetype of the modern sports car. Unsurprisingly, it sold very well by Ferrari standards, with some 3,700 built before production ended in 1974. A few purists sniffed that nothing with only six cylinders could be a 'true' Ferrari, but the Dino 246 is widely considered a classic.
The 2.0 L V6 proved to be less than reliable in civilian hands, with problems with low oil pressure, vapor lock, and plug fouling. In 1969, its displacement was expanded to 2,418 cc (148 cu. in.), and the aluminum block was recast in iron. The 2.4 L engine had more torque than the 2.0 L, making it easier to drive on the street. It was also more durable and cheaper to build, although it was somewhat heavier. Power rose to 180 horsepower (132 kW) for the Fiat version, 195 hp (145 kW) for the Dino, which was renamed Dino 246 GT.
Although cheaper than any contemporary Ferrari, the Dino 246 GT was a very expensive car -- over $14,000, which was around 50% more than the hottest contemporary 911. On the other hand, the new Ferrari flagship, the 365 GTB4 Daytona, cost twenty grand in the States, so the Dino was at least somewhat more attainable. Of course, the Dino had virtues beyond its price. Not only was it fast -- 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in less than 7 seconds, a top speed of around 150 mph (240 kph) -- it was nimble in a way the bulky, front-engine Daytona couldn't match. It was also beautiful, a virtual archetype of the modern sports car. Unsurprisingly, it sold very well by Ferrari standards, with some 3,700 built before production ended in 1974. A few purists sniffed that nothing with only six cylinders could be a 'true' Ferrari, but the Dino 246 is widely considered a classic.
STILO BERTONE
It was almost inevitable, then, that the 246's replacement, the Dino 308 GT4, would be seen as a retrograde step. Introduced in October 1973 at the Paris show, it was less compelling in almost every way than the 246 GT it replaced.
There are a number of theories as to why the 308 GT4 ended up the way it did, but many blame the influence of Fiat. The Dino project had been a kind of courtship between Enzo Ferrari and Gianni Agnelli; in 1969 they announced that Fiat had purchased a 40% interest in Ferrari. Enzo would retain 49% until his death, with an additional 1% given to Pininfarina. (Notably omitted from the press releases was the fact that the remaining 10% was granted to Piero Ferrari, Enzo's illegitimate son with his mistress, Lina Lardi, whom Enzo did not acknowledge until after his wife's death in 1978.) Ferrari had been shopping for a partner since the beginning of the decade. He had actually entered serious negotiations with Ford in 1963, although that deal had collapsed acrimoniously. The Fiat deal was more to Enzo's liking, leaving him in control of the company's racing efforts, but allowed him to step back even further from the road cars, which by most accounts he never really cared much about.
On the face of it, the blame-Fiat theory makes sense, because the new Dino, dubbed 308 GT4, had all the overtones of corporate decision-making. Where the 246 GT had been a pure two-seater (and a cramped one, at that), the 308 GT4 was a 2+2, stretched more than seven inches in wheelbase to make room for a pair of tiny "occasional" rear seats. The logic was presumably that a 2+2 would sell better than a two-seat coupe. It's difficult to envision Enzo caring a whit for such considerations, so it may well have been a dictate from Fiat.
Still, both Piero Ferrari and Marcello Gandini, who styled the 308 GT4, have claimed that Enzo took a great interest in the development of the new Dino. They also say that he was solely responsible for the second controversial decision: assigning the styling of the new car not to Pininfarina, but to Carrozzeria Bertone. Bertone had built Ferraris before, but not in nearly twenty years. Piero says that Enzo was pleased with the styling Bertone had produced for the Fiat Dino Coupe, and thought Bertone would also be an appropriate choice for the 2+2 308 GT4. Even if that were true, it would still have been a curious decision, since Bertone was strongly associated with Lamborghini. Marcello Gandini had recently penned the spectacular Lamborghini Countach, and some historians have even alleged that his design for the 308 GT4 was a previously rejected Lamborghini concept.
Under the skin, the 308 GT4 was essentially a stretched version of the earlier Dinos, also with a transverse, mid-mounted engine. It had a tubular steel chassis, welded to steel body panels; American models had heavier bracing front and rear to meet U.S. safety standards. Bigger than the 246 GT, the 308 GT4 was inevitably heavier, weighing nearly 3,000 pounds (1,330 kg) in European trim. Cars bound for the U.S. weighed about 300 pounds (135 kg) more than that, thanks to their bulky and not terribly attractive 5-mph (8-kph) bumpers. The extra bulk was hardly compensated by the rear seat, which was a torture chamber for anyone bigger than an eight year-old. It was more helpful as a place to stash a briefcase or a picnic basket, although the new car also boasted a reasonably sized trunk behind the engine compartment.
There are a number of theories as to why the 308 GT4 ended up the way it did, but many blame the influence of Fiat. The Dino project had been a kind of courtship between Enzo Ferrari and Gianni Agnelli; in 1969 they announced that Fiat had purchased a 40% interest in Ferrari. Enzo would retain 49% until his death, with an additional 1% given to Pininfarina. (Notably omitted from the press releases was the fact that the remaining 10% was granted to Piero Ferrari, Enzo's illegitimate son with his mistress, Lina Lardi, whom Enzo did not acknowledge until after his wife's death in 1978.) Ferrari had been shopping for a partner since the beginning of the decade. He had actually entered serious negotiations with Ford in 1963, although that deal had collapsed acrimoniously. The Fiat deal was more to Enzo's liking, leaving him in control of the company's racing efforts, but allowed him to step back even further from the road cars, which by most accounts he never really cared much about.
On the face of it, the blame-Fiat theory makes sense, because the new Dino, dubbed 308 GT4, had all the overtones of corporate decision-making. Where the 246 GT had been a pure two-seater (and a cramped one, at that), the 308 GT4 was a 2+2, stretched more than seven inches in wheelbase to make room for a pair of tiny "occasional" rear seats. The logic was presumably that a 2+2 would sell better than a two-seat coupe. It's difficult to envision Enzo caring a whit for such considerations, so it may well have been a dictate from Fiat.
Still, both Piero Ferrari and Marcello Gandini, who styled the 308 GT4, have claimed that Enzo took a great interest in the development of the new Dino. They also say that he was solely responsible for the second controversial decision: assigning the styling of the new car not to Pininfarina, but to Carrozzeria Bertone. Bertone had built Ferraris before, but not in nearly twenty years. Piero says that Enzo was pleased with the styling Bertone had produced for the Fiat Dino Coupe, and thought Bertone would also be an appropriate choice for the 2+2 308 GT4. Even if that were true, it would still have been a curious decision, since Bertone was strongly associated with Lamborghini. Marcello Gandini had recently penned the spectacular Lamborghini Countach, and some historians have even alleged that his design for the 308 GT4 was a previously rejected Lamborghini concept.
Under the skin, the 308 GT4 was essentially a stretched version of the earlier Dinos, also with a transverse, mid-mounted engine. It had a tubular steel chassis, welded to steel body panels; American models had heavier bracing front and rear to meet U.S. safety standards. Bigger than the 246 GT, the 308 GT4 was inevitably heavier, weighing nearly 3,000 pounds (1,330 kg) in European trim. Cars bound for the U.S. weighed about 300 pounds (135 kg) more than that, thanks to their bulky and not terribly attractive 5-mph (8-kph) bumpers. The extra bulk was hardly compensated by the rear seat, which was a torture chamber for anyone bigger than an eight year-old. It was more helpful as a place to stash a briefcase or a picnic basket, although the new car also boasted a reasonably sized trunk behind the engine compartment.
SIDEWINDER EIGHT
The big news is that the Dino V6 was gone, replaced by a new 90° V8. Ferrari had used V8s in racing before, but this was its first production eight. The V8 displaced 2,926 cc (179 cu. in.), although Ferrari preferred to round up to a full 3.0 liters. Like the V6, it had two overhead camshafts for each cylinder bank, although the cams were now driven by rubber timing belts, rather than chains. With four dual-throat Webers, the European engine claimed 250 horsepower (184 kW) at a lofty 7,700 rpm; the smog-controlled U.S. version rated 240 horsepower (179 kW).
Despite the extra weight, the V8 made the 308 GT4 about as fast as its predecessor. It was capable of 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in about 6.5 seconds, with a top speed of over 150 mph (240 kph). Its handling was appropriately adroit, although the suspension was tuned for understeer, sacrificing some of the 246 GT's agility to make the 308 less prone to rotating its tail at the limit. Lifting the throttle in a tight turn on slippery surfaces could still make it spin, but it took considerable effort. As a further safeguard against oversteer, steering lock was very limited, which made manoeuvring in tight spaces frustrating.
The U.S. version, heavier and less powerful, naturally was somewhat slower than the European cars. In June 1975, Car and Driver's Patrick Bedard achieved 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in seven seconds with a 1975 model like our photo car, running the quarter mile (402 meters) in 15.4 seconds at just over 90 mph (146 kph). That was decent for a smog-era car, but Bedard warned that the Dino was no match for the meaner Corvettes and Porsches, advising buyers to avoid stoplight confrontations and rely on their looks to get by.
Unfortunately, Dino 308 GT4 owners couldn't be any more confident of winning a beauty contest than they could a drag race. Compared to the more graceful Pininfarina Ferraris, even the somewhat brutish Daytona, its styling was severe. Trying to cram a 2+2 cabin into a mid-engine sports car rarely ever looks very good -- the raison d'être of mid-engine layouts is to keep the front and rear overhangs as short as possible, which makes the bigger cabin of a 2+2 look stubby and chunky. Mostly, though, the fault was with stylist Marcello Gandini and his fascination with wedge shapes. The 308 GT4's sharply creased lines and slab sides also gave it none of the voluptuous surface detail of Pininfarina's best efforts. The result was an awkwardly proportioned car, with little to draw the eye.
Despite the extra weight, the V8 made the 308 GT4 about as fast as its predecessor. It was capable of 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in about 6.5 seconds, with a top speed of over 150 mph (240 kph). Its handling was appropriately adroit, although the suspension was tuned for understeer, sacrificing some of the 246 GT's agility to make the 308 less prone to rotating its tail at the limit. Lifting the throttle in a tight turn on slippery surfaces could still make it spin, but it took considerable effort. As a further safeguard against oversteer, steering lock was very limited, which made manoeuvring in tight spaces frustrating.
The U.S. version, heavier and less powerful, naturally was somewhat slower than the European cars. In June 1975, Car and Driver's Patrick Bedard achieved 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in seven seconds with a 1975 model like our photo car, running the quarter mile (402 meters) in 15.4 seconds at just over 90 mph (146 kph). That was decent for a smog-era car, but Bedard warned that the Dino was no match for the meaner Corvettes and Porsches, advising buyers to avoid stoplight confrontations and rely on their looks to get by.
Unfortunately, Dino 308 GT4 owners couldn't be any more confident of winning a beauty contest than they could a drag race. Compared to the more graceful Pininfarina Ferraris, even the somewhat brutish Daytona, its styling was severe. Trying to cram a 2+2 cabin into a mid-engine sports car rarely ever looks very good -- the raison d'être of mid-engine layouts is to keep the front and rear overhangs as short as possible, which makes the bigger cabin of a 2+2 look stubby and chunky. Mostly, though, the fault was with stylist Marcello Gandini and his fascination with wedge shapes. The 308 GT4's sharply creased lines and slab sides also gave it none of the voluptuous surface detail of Pininfarina's best efforts. The result was an awkwardly proportioned car, with little to draw the eye.
THE FORGOTTEN FERRARI
European response to the 308 GT4 was frosty. It fared somewhat better in the States, simply because for a time, it was the only new Ferrari model certified for sale in the U.S. The Daytona was gone by time it bowed, and Ferrari never bothered to federalize the fearsome 365 GT/4BB and 512BB "Berlinetta Boxers" (the cars that finally put paid to Enzo's hesitation about offering a 12-cylinder mid-engine road car). The painful spectacle of Ferrari dealers with no actual Ferraris to sell was probably the major reason that, in July 1975, the factory started adding the Ferrari badge andcavallino emblem to the 308 GT4.
The unloved 2+2 was thoroughly upstaged by the new two-seat car, the 308 GTB, which debuted at the 1975 Paris show. Styled by Pininfarina, the GTB was about the same size as Bertone's 2+2, but it had infinitely better proportions. It was as pretty and sensual as the 308 GT4 was severe, and its shape survived well into the eighties. (Its lift-roof GTS version also became the world's most recognizable Ferrari model, thanks to its starring role on the popular TV seriesMagnum, P.I.) Tellingly, the production 308 GTB never wore the Dino badge, which was abandoned completely in May 1976.
In Europe, the 308 GT4 was supplemented from 1975 by a 208 GT4 model, with a 1,991 cc (122 cu. in.) version of the V8 that put the car in a more favorable tax bracket. The 208 GT4 had 180 horsepower, and could run 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in about 8.5 seconds, with a top speed of around 135 mph (217 kph). About 800 were sold in total, most of them in Italy.
You might expect that the debut of the far more popular 308 GTB would have meant the end of the line for the 308 GT4, but it lingered on for several more years. Apparently, someone (probably the Fiat management) thought Ferrari should have at least one "affordable" 2+2 -- another indication, like the unceremonious cancellation of the Dino brand, that Enzo Ferrari was no longer paying much attention to passenger-car production (if, indeed, he ever had). In 1978, the engines were detuned for emissions purposes, dropping to 230 hp in Europe and 205 in the U.S. Otherwise, the cars otherwise continued almost unchanged until December 1980. Total production was 2,826, which was still enough to make it one of the best-selling models in Ferrari's history. It was replaced by the Mondial 8.
The 308 GT4 was not a bad car, at least by the questionable standards of mid-seventies sports cars, but it had the same weaknesses as any other Ferrari (spotty build quality, limited practicality, a choppy ride, horrible fuel economy, exorbitant repair and maintenance costs), without their redeeming virtues (blazing speed, badge snobbery, fabulous looks). The latter was the real killer; if it had been as gorgeous as the 246 GT, history would happily overlook everything else. The 308 GT4 certainly looked exotic; it just didn't look like a Ferrari. If you didn't know better, you could mistake it for a Lamborghini Urraco, or even the significantly cheaper De Tomaso Pantera -- not a thought to warm the hearts of a Ferrariste laying out big money for Maranello's latest. As a result, it is not particularly desirable to modern collectors.
Your author, ever one for the perverse, finds something oddly appealing about the 308 GT4's redheaded-stepchild status -- it's the least-adored scion of perhaps the world's most revered automotive family. On the other hand, it must be said that we would also be amused by the idea of making a hot rod out of a Checker Marathon, for similar reasons. As a notable oddball, the 308 GT4 scores highly, but in other respects, the last Dino remains a hard car to love.
The unloved 2+2 was thoroughly upstaged by the new two-seat car, the 308 GTB, which debuted at the 1975 Paris show. Styled by Pininfarina, the GTB was about the same size as Bertone's 2+2, but it had infinitely better proportions. It was as pretty and sensual as the 308 GT4 was severe, and its shape survived well into the eighties. (Its lift-roof GTS version also became the world's most recognizable Ferrari model, thanks to its starring role on the popular TV seriesMagnum, P.I.) Tellingly, the production 308 GTB never wore the Dino badge, which was abandoned completely in May 1976.
In Europe, the 308 GT4 was supplemented from 1975 by a 208 GT4 model, with a 1,991 cc (122 cu. in.) version of the V8 that put the car in a more favorable tax bracket. The 208 GT4 had 180 horsepower, and could run 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in about 8.5 seconds, with a top speed of around 135 mph (217 kph). About 800 were sold in total, most of them in Italy.
You might expect that the debut of the far more popular 308 GTB would have meant the end of the line for the 308 GT4, but it lingered on for several more years. Apparently, someone (probably the Fiat management) thought Ferrari should have at least one "affordable" 2+2 -- another indication, like the unceremonious cancellation of the Dino brand, that Enzo Ferrari was no longer paying much attention to passenger-car production (if, indeed, he ever had). In 1978, the engines were detuned for emissions purposes, dropping to 230 hp in Europe and 205 in the U.S. Otherwise, the cars otherwise continued almost unchanged until December 1980. Total production was 2,826, which was still enough to make it one of the best-selling models in Ferrari's history. It was replaced by the Mondial 8.
The 308 GT4 was not a bad car, at least by the questionable standards of mid-seventies sports cars, but it had the same weaknesses as any other Ferrari (spotty build quality, limited practicality, a choppy ride, horrible fuel economy, exorbitant repair and maintenance costs), without their redeeming virtues (blazing speed, badge snobbery, fabulous looks). The latter was the real killer; if it had been as gorgeous as the 246 GT, history would happily overlook everything else. The 308 GT4 certainly looked exotic; it just didn't look like a Ferrari. If you didn't know better, you could mistake it for a Lamborghini Urraco, or even the significantly cheaper De Tomaso Pantera -- not a thought to warm the hearts of a Ferrariste laying out big money for Maranello's latest. As a result, it is not particularly desirable to modern collectors.
Your author, ever one for the perverse, finds something oddly appealing about the 308 GT4's redheaded-stepchild status -- it's the least-adored scion of perhaps the world's most revered automotive family. On the other hand, it must be said that we would also be amused by the idea of making a hot rod out of a Checker Marathon, for similar reasons. As a notable oddball, the 308 GT4 scores highly, but in other respects, the last Dino remains a hard car to love.
# # #
NOTES ON SOURCES
Our principal sources for this article were "Ferrari 308 GT4" by the Auto Editors of Consumer Guide (7 May 2007, HowStuffWorks.com, http://auto.howstuffworks. com/ ferrari-308-gt4.htm, accessed 3 September 2008) and Pete Lyons and the Auto Editors of Consumer Guide, Ferrari: The Man and His Machines (Lincolnwood, IL: Publications International, Ltd., 1989). Information on the Fiat Dino came from "Fiat Dino: a poor man's Ferrari" by André Ritzinger (original date unknown, RitzSite, http://www.ritzsite.nl/Fiat_Dino/01_Fiat_Dino.htm, accessed 3 September 2008). Background on Enzo Ferrari himself came from Brock Yates, Enzo Ferrari: The Man, The Cars, The Races, The Machine (New York: Doubleday, 1991). Details on the 208 GT4 came from the Cars from Italy pages "Ferrari 208" (2008, CarsFromItaly, http://www.carsfromitaly.net/ferrari/f_208.html, accessed 3 September 2008) and "Ferrari 308" (2008, CarsFromItaly, http://www.carsfromitaly.net/ferrari/f_308.html, accessed 3 2008); the Ferrari GT4 Wikipedia® page (http://en.wikipedia. org/ wiki/Ferrari_GT4, accessed 3 September 2008); and Mark Wan, "Ferrari 308GT4 (1973)" (no date, AutoZine.org, http://www.autozine. org/ Archive/Ferrari/classic/308GT4.html, accessed 1 September 2008).
Road tests consulted for this article included Patrick Bedard, "Fantasy Cars for Everyman," Car and Driver, June 1975, reprinted in R.M. Clarke, ed., Car and Driver on Ferrari (Cobham, Surrey: Brooklands Books, Ltd., 1985), pp. 91-95; Paul Frère, "Dino 308 GT4," Road & Track, September 1974; "Dinos: Is newer better?" Autocar, 16 August 1975; "Ferrari Dino 308gt4," Road Test, March 1976; and "Autotest: Ferrari Dino 308GT4 2+2," Autocar, 13 March 1976, all of which are reprinted in R.M. Clarke, ed., Ferrari Dino 308, 1974-79 (Brooklands Road Tests) (Cobham, Surrey: Brooklands Books, 1982).
Road tests consulted for this article included Patrick Bedard, "Fantasy Cars for Everyman," Car and Driver, June 1975, reprinted in R.M. Clarke, ed., Car and Driver on Ferrari (Cobham, Surrey: Brooklands Books, Ltd., 1985), pp. 91-95; Paul Frère, "Dino 308 GT4," Road & Track, September 1974; "Dinos: Is newer better?" Autocar, 16 August 1975; "Ferrari Dino 308gt4," Road Test, March 1976; and "Autotest: Ferrari Dino 308GT4 2+2," Autocar, 13 March 1976, all of which are reprinted in R.M. Clarke, ed., Ferrari Dino 308, 1974-79 (Brooklands Road Tests) (Cobham, Surrey: Brooklands Books, 1982).
by Aaron Severson
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Ferrari 308 GT4 1973-1980 Checkpoints - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma
Engine
With its 7600rpm red-line, the GT4’s 2926cc V8 is a gem of an engine as long as it’s in fine fettle. Tough and reliable, the powerplant will cover 100,000 miles between rebuilds if looked after. But it won’t take much in the way of abuse before it starts to give serious (and costly) problems.
With its 7600rpm red-line, the GT4’s 2926cc V8 is a gem of an engine as long as it’s in fine fettle. Tough and reliable, the powerplant will cover 100,000 miles between rebuilds if looked after. But it won’t take much in the way of abuse before it starts to give serious (and costly) problems.
One of the easiest ways to hurt a Ferrari V8 is to rev it hard from cold, causing piston ring and valve wear. Blue smoke from the exhaust gives the game away, but don’t fret too much if there’s a steady stream of white smoke; they all do that! If a full rebuild is needed, you’ll spend around £10,000; if just the top end needs fettling, this figure is halved.
Each camshaft is driven by a toothed rubber cam belt, and these need to be renewed every 25,000 miles or two years – although most specialists reckon every 16,000 miles is a safer bet. If the belt breaks, the pistons and valves will get intimate and you’ll be staring down the barrel of a full engine rebuild.
Head gaskets are prone to problems, and while it’s worth doing the standard test of looking for a white emulsion on the underside of the oil filler cap, you can also check the oil itself, on the dipstick. However, a common tell-tale is the temperature gauge shooting up to maximum soon after starting the car, even when the engine hasn’t got up to temperature. If either of the gaskets has failed, expect to pay £3000 on a fix. This covers the cost of replacing both, as they should be done in pairs even if one is apparently healthy.
Setting up the quartet of Weber twin-choke carbs can be costly and time-consuming, so if the engine runs unevenly suspect everything is out of balance. It’s worth doing a compression check on each combustion chamber; you’re looking for 150psi each time.
TransmissionYou can tell the GT4 is a genuine Italian supercar by the way it refuses to allow you to select second gear until the transmission has fully warmed up. However, if this ratio is still hard to get once everything is at temperature, it’s because the synchromesh has worn. By the time this happens, the whole gearbox usually needs rebuilding – at a cost of up to £5000, although it can be less.
TransmissionYou can tell the GT4 is a genuine Italian supercar by the way it refuses to allow you to select second gear until the transmission has fully warmed up. However, if this ratio is still hard to get once everything is at temperature, it’s because the synchromesh has worn. By the time this happens, the whole gearbox usually needs rebuilding – at a cost of up to £5000, although it can be less.
Clutches don’t last long: if the car isn’t driven too hard you’ll get 20,000 miles out of one if you’re lucky. When replacement time comes round, expect to pay £750 to have the work done. Other than that it’s just a question of making sure there’s no vibration because of a propshaft that’s out of balance, and no whining because the diff or gearbox are past their best. Universal joints can also wear, leading to clonks as the drive is taken up – but even if this work does need doing, it’s not difficult or costly.
Suspension, steering and brakes
In true supercar fashion, at each end of a GT4 you’ll find double wishbones with coil springs and telescopic dampers. That’s why the car should handle so fabulously, although bits do wear if a grease gun hasn’t been used every two or three years. Without proper lubrication, the various ball joints suffer (there are four of them), while the rubber bushes can also perish, which will lead to wayward handling.
In true supercar fashion, at each end of a GT4 you’ll find double wishbones with coil springs and telescopic dampers. That’s why the car should handle so fabulously, although bits do wear if a grease gun hasn’t been used every two or three years. Without proper lubrication, the various ball joints suffer (there are four of them), while the rubber bushes can also perish, which will lead to wayward handling.
All GT4s were supplied with alloy wheels, and these can look the worse for wear if there’s been too much intimate contact with kerbstones. Also check that the lacquer isn’t peeling off; in both cases, if the damage is superficial, it’s cheap and easy enough to get the rims reconditioned. Expect to pay no more than £50-60 per corner to get the wheels looking as good as new.
There are two possible brake problems, but it’s unlikely that any one car will be afflicted with both. The first is the seizing up of components from a lack of use; many of these motors sit from one month
to the next without turning a wheel. As a result the handbrake can start to give problems, although it’s nothing that a bit of grease won’t cure – and even when working properly it can struggle to hold the car.
to the next without turning a wheel. As a result the handbrake can start to give problems, although it’s nothing that a bit of grease won’t cure – and even when working properly it can struggle to hold the car.
The other likely malady is a set of brake discs that are scored from hard use; some owners drive their GT4s brutally, and while the stoppers work fine in normal conditions, they don’t take abuse very readily. A fresh set of discs all round costs £750.
Bodywork, electrics and trim
The GT4 may have been costly when new, but it’s still a 1970s Italian car so don’t be surprised if the one you’re inspecting is riddled with rot. Superb examples abound – but there are some complete sheds out there as well.
The GT4 may have been costly when new, but it’s still a 1970s Italian car so don’t be surprised if the one you’re inspecting is riddled with rot. Superb examples abound – but there are some complete sheds out there as well.
Start by opening the doors, bonnet and boot, and looking at all the panel edges to make sure they haven’t begun to corrode. The bonnet and bootlid are made of aluminium, but the rest of the panels are steel, over a stretched 246GT spaceframe chassis (which can corrode, so check it thoroughly). If the
car has been crashed, unless it’s been rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing, the bodyshell is likely to be twisted. However, you could struggle to spot this unless the panel fit is very poor and there’s rubbing of the door, bonnet or bootlid edges with the surrounding panels.
car has been crashed, unless it’s been rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing, the bodyshell is likely to be twisted. However, you could struggle to spot this unless the panel fit is very poor and there’s rubbing of the door, bonnet or bootlid edges with the surrounding panels.
The rear wheelarches are especially likely to be ‘lacy’, along with most of the lower panels such as the sills, valances and back quarters. It’s the same story where the bottom edges of the doors are concerned; their drain holes clog so they rot from the inside out. The door frames and skins are both constructed from metal that’s too thin for its own good, so once corrosion gets started the whole lower part of the assembly will soon be history.
Other common rot spots include the tops of each front wing, so check that these haven’t already been bodged with glassfibre repairs – a magnet is an essential tool for anybody who is thinking about buying a Ferrari. You also need to wield said magnet around the door hinges; any bodging here is likely to lead to giveaway sagging doors. Finish off by inspecting the top of the rear window, where the ventilation slots corrode.
Your final check should be that neither of the two fuel tanks is leaking – which they will do if they are rotten. They sit just ahead of the rear wheels and cost £1200 apiece to change, including labour. Leather upholstery was the order of the day for the GT4; at first the seats were trimmed with a combination of suede and hide, but towards the end of production this became leather throughout. Whatever the car you are looking at has make sure there are no tears or splits, as retrimming a GT4 interior is costly.
It’s cliché time again, because the Ferrari’s electrics are typically Italian in that they throw a wobbly at the drop of a hat. One of the most temperamental components is the fuse box, which can create all sorts of strange happenings as it gradually overheats and blows fuses in the process. A new unit (at £150) is sometimes the only solution because the connections are too far gone to be revived.
Another common ailment is an oil-pressure gauge sender that makes up readings as it goes along. Start the engine and see if the gauge is erratic; if it is, budget on spending £100 for a new sender unit. Also check the headlamps go up and down okay; each unit has a cam to stop it popping up when it shouldn’t. When these wear, the bill can run to over £200 per side.
Conclusion
Conclusion
We reckon the GT4 offers fabulous value for money – but it also gives virtually unrivalled opportunities for hefty financial shocks. Buy a good one and you’ll need to budget significant sums to keep it in fine fettle. Buy a bad one and you could end up with a car that costs more to put right than you’ll ever get back if you have to sell.
That’s why it’s essential that once you have found a model which appears to be sound, you get an expert to ensure that it’s as good as it seems. If it is, snap it up and enjoy it before fun on the roads is banned entirely!
Text Richard Dredge
photos: www.magicarpics.co.uk
photos: www.magicarpics.co.uk
Friday, May 17, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Which Ferrari 308 GTS should I buy? - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports Sonoma
So you have decided to purchase a Ferrari 308 GTS, and now wonder which type you should choose. Lets start with what is available. There are what we can call three categories of 308 GTS to choose from, each having their own pros and cons.
- Carb. cars – 1977-1980
- 2 valve fuel injected cars 1980 -1982
- 4 valve (QV) cars 1983-1985
Carb cars. - Pros – Closest to original design. Some feel that as the series progressed the cars lost some of its original design cleanness. Things such as larger air-dams, wheels, or spoilers detracting from the original concept of the car. Great noises from those 4 carbs gulping in air over your head. Lets face it, Ferrari puts a high priority on all the visceral feelings its cars give its driver, and their is no sweeter sound to be had then a carburetted high revving V8 right over your shoulder. The most powerful of the 3 types, with a rated 255bhp in Euro spec.(1977 only). Cons – Requires more maintenance to keep those carbs. in tune. Can be more difficult to start when cold. The 1978 and 1979 cars imported into the US had to meet stricter emission standards, so were fitted with catalytic converters, lower lift and duration cams, and leaner jetting to to lower emissions, thus lowering bhp to 205. Prices at the time of writing in the US range ( of course cars vary depending on condition and maintenance) from $25,000 – $35000 for a 1977, and $20,000-30,000 for a 1978-80.
2 valve fuel injected cars. – Pros.- Cheapest of the 308s as the drop in power (205bph) US and (210) Euro spec. made them the least sought after of the series. Better reliability than the carburetted cars, as there was no more a need to keep four carbs. in tune. Cold starting improved, and drivability issues such as fuel starvation in turns, or flat-spots at some throttle openings were resolved. The new electronic ignition made the need to adjust points history. Cons – No more “intake music” from carbs. Least desirable due to the drop in power. Original tires for the new 390 mm wheels are expensive to replace (< $400) US.Prices at the time of writing in the US range ( of course cars vary depending on condition and maintenance) from $20,000 – $30,000.
4 valve cars. – Pros. – Quattrovalvole cars or 4 valve per cylinder heads, brought power output back up to a respectable (230bph) US and (240bph) Euro, giving back the loss in “pep” stricter emission standards took away, and so are the most desirable of the GTS. 16” wheels were now available, allowing the fitment of cheaper, more modern looking and better rubber. 84-85 models were made with galvanized steel for better rustproofing. Cons. – As the most desirable, the most expensive to get into. Some people don't like the add on of the roof spoiler ahead of the “flying buttresses.” Prices at the time of writing in the US range ( of course cars vary depending on condition and maintenance) from $35,000 – $55,000.
Which one to choose? Euro vs. US spec. car.
So, you may be thinking to yourself, “I want a Euro-spec. car! They are better!” Yes, it is advantageous to have a “Euro” 308 because it will have more power, be lighter, and even look better and thus be more desirable then a US spec. car. It is for this reason that you will see many 308s listed for sale as a “Euro” spec. car that were only “kinda federalized” to meet US Standards. This being the case, a pre purchase inspection should be mandatory to confirm if such car is actually a “Euro 308” and if not, which parts were changed.
Below is a list of differences between a “Euro” and “U.S.” spec. Ferrari 308 GTS
- 240 hp for Euro and 235 hp for U.S.
- Different gear ratios for US to aid in emissions.
- Lighter, small front bumper that follows the hood line on Euro vs. 2.5 mph impact bumper that is extended.
- Lighter, small rear bumper on Euro vs. impact bumper with spacer on U.S.
- Exposed dual tip muffler on Euro vs. black muffler cover with catalytic converter on U.S.
- Vitaloni style outside mirrors on Euro vs. larger “flag” type mirrors on U.S.
- Small round front side marker light with no rear side lights vs. larger rectangular front and red rear side marker lights.
- “fasten seat belt” warning light U.S. spec.
- Driving lights in front grill in Euro spec for Flash passing. (a Euro thing)
- Space saver spare tire in Euro, full size spare in U.S.
- Rear engine cover top has only a left and right grill vents where U.S. has “U” shaped grill.
- Weight of Euro spec lower because of not having door beams and larger bumpers.
source: http://www.ferrari308gts.com/
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Cost of maintaining your Ferrari 308 GTS - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports Sonoma
The first thing you must realize, or understand, is that owning a 26 year old(at the youngest) Ferrari 308 is not like owning a 26 year old toyota. The “social cache” of being able to say “I drive a Ferrari” means that you at least have the money to be able to properly care for and maintain a hand made Italian exotic car. In other words, it won’t be a matter of finding a good car, keeping the oil changed and driving it without care for as long as you own the car. Owning a “Ferrari 308 GTS”, however, will be one of the least expensive ways to get into “Ferrari ownership”.
It is for this reason, that because you can get into a Ferrari 308 for between $20,000 $50,000 US, that some guys who buy the cars can just barely afford the car, and not have done their homework on what would be required to “maintain” the car, and once the “new toy” feeling wears off, paying to properly service the car is then neglected. After awhile, that neglected car starts to have problems that are even more expensive to fix. So either that owner has to pony up big bucks to repair the car, or stop driving it.
Is this saying that Ferraris break more that other cars their age? No, Ferraris are some of the toughest cars engineered. Once, at a Ferrari owners club meeting at Dan Gurneys All American Racers headquarters, I had the opportunity to ask Dan, a former Ferrari F1 driver how he liked driving the Ferrari F1 cars? and he said “that of all the race cars he had the opportunity to drive, the Ferrari’s were the toughest machines. I would often have other cars rattle to pieces underneath me during a race, but the Ferraris were always so solid.”
The key then to a happy Ferrari 308 GTS ownership experience is to find and buy a car that has a complete documented service history. Ferrari made more than 8000 308 GTS’s, so finding cars with complete service histories shouldn’t be that difficult. a brief list of service intervals and costs are as follows:
These estimated prices are for having an independent Ferrari shop do the work.
A service should be performed every 3000 miles or 12 months, which ever comes first.
A 3000 mile minor service will average $700-$1000.
A major service to be performed every 3rd year, at an average $2500-3000
A complete brake job will run between $4000-5000
A new clutch will run between $2000-2500
New O.E.M. tires will cost at least $400 each.
The other option you have is to do the work yourself. If you have the time, desire, and ability to wrench on your Ferrari, you can save a lot of money, as much as half. I will be posting complete instructions on self maintenance in the future, but until then, there are many online sources for working on your Ferrari.
The bottom line – Find, and buy the best car you can afford, with complete maintenance records, and a bill of good health from your independent Ferrari shops Pre-Purchase inspection. After buying your 308, be prepared to put aside at least $3000 a year for maintaining the value of your dream car.
source: http://www.ferrari308gts.com/
Monday, May 13, 2013
Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Owning a Ferrari may not be as unattainable as you might think.- Angelo Zucchi Motorsports Sonoma
The name Ferrari may bring to mind current production cars such as the 360 Modena, which sells for $136,000 and up—or recent production cars such as the exclusive F50, which sells for as much as $700,000 today. Or Ferrari may evoke the Italian classics from the '50s and '60s—cars that sell for tens of millions of dollars when they change hands at collector car auctions and private sales around the world.
With prices like these, not to mention recent U.S. economic turbulence, many may feel the dream of owning a Ferrari will always remain just that: a fantasy. But would you believe that for the price of a loadedHonda Accord, or a nice midsize SUV, you can experience the mystique and joy of owning and driving a Ferrari?
As a matter of fact, there are quality Ferraris selling for less than $40,000—and even as low as $20,000—that can be driven with confidence and enjoyed for many years.
MSN Autos spoke with Ferrari experts around the U.S. for suggestions on what models to look for—and look out for—when making the Ferrari dream a reality.
Affordable Ferrari Models
The 308 series of V8-powered, mid-engine two-seaters is certainly one of the most recognized of all Ferrari models. Ferrari introduced the 308 GTB in 1975 and added the 308 GTS with a removable roof panel in 1978. The Ferrari 308 GTS became well known to most Americans as the car driven by Tom Selleck in the popular '80s TV series, Magnum PI. The 308 GTB and GTS were produced through 1985 and replaced in 1986 with the revised 328 GTB/GTS.
The 308 series of V8-powered, mid-engine two-seaters is certainly one of the most recognized of all Ferrari models. Ferrari introduced the 308 GTB in 1975 and added the 308 GTS with a removable roof panel in 1978. The Ferrari 308 GTS became well known to most Americans as the car driven by Tom Selleck in the popular '80s TV series, Magnum PI. The 308 GTB and GTS were produced through 1985 and replaced in 1986 with the revised 328 GTB/GTS.
More of the Ferrari 308 series were produced than any other Ferrari model, and most of this series will sell for less than $40,000 today. With some diligent research and patience, a buyer should be able to find 308s in good condition for less than $30,000 and maybe even closer to $20,000.
But a pre-owned Ferrari is not just another used car. A buyer must be very careful about the car being bought, or thousands of dollars of service work may be needed before the car is roadworthy and in proper form.
"To find a Ferrari in the $30,000 to 35,000 price range, as a buyer you will be looking at a car that is 15 to 20 years old, and it is a hand-built Italian sports car that can be temperamental and doesn't age well in the wrong hands," explained Carl Cannefax, director of sales at MotorCars International in Springfield, Missouri. MotorCars International sells more than 100 Ferraris each year, and Cannefax has been with the dealership for 12 years.
"Evaluating a Ferrari 308 is not something that the average person on the street can do effectively," Cannefax cautions. "A buyer needs to hook up with someone trustworthy who has experience with these cars to find a crisp, clean car with a good history."
Tino Perrina, vice president of Ferrari of Seattle, told MSN Autos, "Once a buyer finds a car worth considering, they need to find a trustworthy technician or dealership and take the car there for a buyer's inspection."
"I emphasize finding someone you trust, because you're dealing with cars that are 15 to 20 years old, so you have to have faith in that technician, because I can tell you today that your water pump is not leaking, and in a week that water pump can start leaking," Perrina pointed out.
Mechanical and Cosmetic
The mechanical service history of a Ferrari is one of the most important factors when evaluating a car before purchase, but it is equally important to evaluate how the car looks, both inside and out.
The mechanical service history of a Ferrari is one of the most important factors when evaluating a car before purchase, but it is equally important to evaluate how the car looks, both inside and out.
"Mechanically a car can usually be brought back into perfect condition, but it can be much more difficult to put it back into perfect condition cosmetically" cautions Andy Meyer, a Ferrari specialist at Park Place Ltd. in Bellevue, Washington.
"If a Ferrari 308 GTB/GTS needs to be painted, you are looking at $5,000 minimum, and if the leather seat covers need to be replaced—or the carpet or the dash cover—you are also looking at spending thousands and thousands of dollars to fix it correctly," Meyer explained.
"We are not as concerned with how many owners a car has had as we are with the service history," Cannefax noted. "A Ferrari without complete service history records is very difficult to sell, and the question that everyone needs to ask with a 308 GTB/GTS is whether the major service has been done."
Cannefax put maintenance in perspective: "A major service is the equivalent to an "annual" maintenance on an airplane, and Ferrari requires a major service every 15,000 miles or five years on a 308 GTB/GTS. He noted that the most important element of this service is changing the timing belts, because if a belt breaks in a 308 engine it will cause thousands of dollars of damage.
And when it's a Ferrari, where the service was performed is just as important as what was performed, according to Steven Eckhoff, sales manager of Ferrari of Atlanta. "If you are not buying a car from an authorized Ferrari dealer, you need to have an independent third party evaluate the car, because if you get the wrong car the potential expense is significant. A major service on a 308 GTSi will cost $4,000," Eckhoff explained.
Ferrari of Seattle's Perrina told MSN Autos, " . . . even a 308, if you buy the wrong car, it can cost you $5,000 or $10,000 dollars [in additional service and repairs]. As with anything, you need to be an educated buyer. Take the time to do some research yourself and to make sure that this is the right car for you."
Other Ferraris to Consider
Prior to the introduction of the 308 GTB in 1975, Ferrari produced the 308 GT4, a mid-engine four-seat car that uses the same drivetrain as the 308 GTB. Produced for only three years, the 308 GT4 does not have as sleek a body as the 308 GTB, but the driving experience is very similar.
Prior to the introduction of the 308 GTB in 1975, Ferrari produced the 308 GT4, a mid-engine four-seat car that uses the same drivetrain as the 308 GTB. Produced for only three years, the 308 GT4 does not have as sleek a body as the 308 GTB, but the driving experience is very similar.
A nice 308 GT4 can be a good value in an inexpensive, fun-to-drive Ferrari. MSN Autos saw one example of a 1973 308 GT4 with only 13,000 original miles that would sell for less than $30,000. With higher mileage, a GT4 would probably sell close to $20,000, or even less.
The Ferrari Mondial is also a mid-engine four-seater that shares the drivetrain with the 308 GTB and GTS. The Mondial was introduced in 1980 and the Mondial Cabriolet in 1982, and most of the early examples should be in the $30,000 - 40,000 range.
Perrina told MSN Autos, "You can get a lot of Mondial for the same money compared to a 308. The Mondial has a different look and has not been valued as highly. For $40,000 you can get a wonderful driving car with a 3.2-liter engine and somewhat of a back seat."
Time to Enjoy
Once a new owner has verified that the major servicing has been done, or has personally had it completed, the end result is a car that can be enjoyed for years to come.
Once a new owner has verified that the major servicing has been done, or has personally had it completed, the end result is a car that can be enjoyed for years to come.
A Ferrari is typically not a car to drive on a daily basis, but it certainly can be driven often, giving the owner a sense of pride and a taste of the Ferrari mystique.
"Ferrari is one of the world's most recognized names. You say Ferrari and people get that look in their eyes—there are very few people who don't recognize the name," Perrina reflected.
"There is a passion behind the car, there is a culture. It's art, not to discount the performance characteristics of the car. It's just an absolutely awesome time when you are behind the wheel," Perrina revealed.
Putting it all in perspective, the cost of a car is no one's business but the owner's. No one needs to know your Ferrari isn't a brand-new machine, and most people simply won't know—but nearly everyone will share your enthusiasm for the car.
"I drive a Ferrari because I absolutely love the drive. You know, it's flattering to get the 'Hey, nice car,' but that is not a big deal," concluded Perrina. "When you drive that car and you're shifting gears, and the engine is making music, and you are one with that piece of machinery, it's pretty awesome."
source: msn autos
by Mike Meredith
by Mike Meredith
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