Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Which Ferrari 308 GTS should I buy? - Angelo Zucchi Motosports Sonoma - 707-334-3700

 

 

So you have decided to purchase a Ferrari 308 GTS, and now wonder which type you should choose. Lets start with what is available. There are what we can call three categories of 308 GTS to choose from, each having their own pros and cons. 

1. Carb. cars – 1977-1980

1. 2 valve fuel injected cars 1980 -1982

1. 4 valve (QV) cars 1983-1985

Carb cars. -  Pros – Closest to original design. Some feel that as the series progressed the cars lost some of its original design cleanness. Things such as larger air-dams, wheels, or spoilers detracting from the original concept of the car. Great noises from those 4 carbs gulping in air over your head. Lets face it, Ferrari puts a high priority on all the visceral feelings its cars give its driver, and their is no sweeter sound to be had then a carburetted high revving V8 right over your shoulder. The most powerful of the 3 types, with a rated 255bhp in Euro spec.(1977  only). Cons – Requires more maintenance to keep those carbs. in tune. Can be more difficult to start when cold. The 1978 and 1979 cars imported into the US had to meet stricter emission standards, so were fitted with catalytic converters, lower lift and duration cams, and leaner jetting to to lower emissions, thus lowering bhp to 205. Prices at the time of writing in the US range ( of course cars vary depending on condition and maintenance) from $25,000 – $35000 for a 1977, and $20,000-30,000 for a 1978-80.

2 valve fuel injected cars. – Pros.- Cheapest of the 308s as the drop in power (205bph) US and (210) Euro spec. made them the least sought after of the series. Better reliability than the carbureted cars, as there was no more a need to keep four carbs. in tune. Cold starting improved, and drivability issues such as fuel starvation in turns, or flat-spots at some throttle openings were resolved. The new electronic ignition made the need to adjust points history. Cons – No more “intake music” from carbs. Least desirable due to the drop in power. Original tires for the new 390 mm wheels are expensive to replace (< $400) US.Prices at the time of writing in the US range ( of course cars vary depending on condition and maintenance) from $20,000 – $30,000.

4 valve cars. – Pros. – Quattrovalvole cars or 4 valve per cylinder heads, brought power output back up to a respectable (230bph) US and (240bph) Euro, giving back the loss in “pep” stricter emission standards took away, and so are the most desirable of the GTS. 16” wheels were now available, allowing the fitment of cheaper, more modern looking and better rubber. 84-85 models were made with galvanized steel for better rustproofing.Cons. – As the most desirable, the most expensive to get into. Some people dont like the add on of the roof spoiler ahead of the “flying buttresses.” Prices at the time of writing in the US range ( of course cars vary depending on condition and maintenance) from $35,000 – $55,000.

Which one to choose? Euro vs. US spec. car.

So, you may be thinking to yourself, “I want a Euro-spec. car! They are better!” Yes, it is advantageous to have a “Euro” 308 because it will have more power, be lighter, and even look better and thus be more desirable then a US spec. car. It is for this reason that you will see many 308s listed for sale as a “Euro” spec. car that were only “kinda federalized” to meet US Standards. This being the case, a pre purchase inspection should be mandatory to confirm if such car is actually a “Euro 308” and if not, which parts were changed.

Below is a list of differences between a “Euro” and “U.S.” spec. Ferrari 308 GTS

• 240 hp for Euro and 235 hp for U.S.
• Different gear ratios for US to aid in emissions.
• Lighter, small front bumper that follows the hood line on Euro vs. 2.5 mph impact bumper that is extended.
• Lighter, small rear bumper on Euro vs. impact bumper with spacer on U.S.
• Exposed dual tip muffler on Euro vs. black muffler cover with catalytic converter on U.S.
• Vitaloni style outside mirrors on Euro vs. larger “flag” type mirrors on U.S.
• Small round front side marker light with no rear side lights vs. larger rectangular front and red rear side marker lights.
• “fasten seat belt” warning light U.S. spec.
• Driving lights in front grill in Euro spec for Flash passing. (a Euro thing)
• Space saver spare tire in Euro, full size spare in U.S.
• Rear engine cover top has only a left and right grill vents where U.S. has “U” shaped grill.
• Weight of Euro spec lower because of not having door beams and larger bumpers.

source: http://www.ferrari308gts.com/

 

 

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - Cost of maintaining your Ferrari 308 - Angelo Zucchi Motosports Sonoma - 707-334-3700

The first thing you must realize, or understand, is that owning a 26 year old(at the youngest) Ferrari 308 is not like owning a 26 year old toyota. The “social cache” of being able to say “I drive a Ferrari” means that you at least have the money to be able to properly care for and maintain a hand made Italian exotic car. In other words, it won’t be a matter of finding a good car, keeping the oil changed and driving it without care for as long as you own the car. Owning a “Ferrari 308 GTS”, however, will be one of the least expensive ways to get into “Ferrari ownership”.

It is for this reason, that because you can get into a Ferrari 308 for between $20,000 $50,000 US, that some guys who buy the cars can just barely afford the car, and not have done their homework on what would be required to “maintain” the car, and once the “new toy” feeling wears off, paying to properly service the car is then neglected. After awhile, that neglected car starts to have problems that are even more expensive to fix. So either that owner has to pony up big bucks to repair the car, or stop driving it.

Is this saying that Ferraris break more that other cars their age? No, Ferraris are some of the toughest cars engineered. Once, at a Ferrari owners club meeting at Dan Gurneys All American Racers headquarters, I had the opportunity to ask Dan, a former Ferrari F1 driver how he liked driving the Ferrari F1 cars? and he said “that of all the race cars he had the opportunity to drive, the Ferrari’s were the toughest machines. I would often have other cars rattle to pieces underneath me during a race, but the Ferraris were always so solid.”

The key then to a happy Ferrari 308 GTS ownership experience is to find and buy a car that has a complete documented service history. Ferrari made more than 8000 308 GTS’s, so finding cars with complete service histories shouldn’t be that difficult. a brief list of service intervals and costs are as follows:

These estimated prices are for having an independent Ferrari shop do the work.

A service should be performed every 3000 miles or 12 months, which ever comes first.

A 3000 mile minor service will average $700-$1000.

A major service to be performed every 3rd year, at an average $2500-3000

A complete brake job will run between $4000-5000

A new clutch will run between $2000-2500

New O.E.M. tires will cost at least $400 each.

The other option you have is to do the work yourself. If you have the time, desire, and ability to wrench on your Ferrari, you can save a lot of money, as much as half. I will be posting complete instructions on self maintenance in the future, but until then, there are many online sources for working on your Ferrari.

The bottom line – Find, and buy the best car you can afford, with complete maintenance records, and a bill of good health from your independent Ferrari shops Pre-Purchase inspection. After buying your 308, be prepared to put aside at least $3000 a year for maintaining the value of your dream car.

source: http://www.ferrari308gts.com/

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay Area - This is a pictorial guide to removing the water pump from a ferrari 308 - Angelo Zucchi Motosports Sonoma - 707-334-3700

 

This is a pictorial guide to removing the water pump from a ferrari 308 without having to remove the forward Cam cover,

	The main problem with removing the water pump is not the pump itself, but whats in the way. Later cars had cut outs in the Cam covers to allow easy access to the pump. Older cars require removal of at least the rear most Cam cover. Removal of both Cam covers would be ideal but on many cars the front cover is blocked by the Air conditioning compressor. So I have provided a guide to show how to remove the pump whilst removing only the rear cover. To gain you access the area through the right side rear wheel well. You will also need to remove the air box on top of the carbs, this is fairlly straight forward first remove the lid and the air filter. undo the four nuts on each of the carb trumpets taking care not to drop anything down the carbs. Remove the trumpets and place to one side. undo the jubilee clip on the bottom of the small breather hose on the left side of the engine, and undo the clip on the large air intake hose on the right side.You can now lift up the whole airbox but be carefull that the small brass grommets on the carburretor studs do not fall down the throats of the carbs. I then loosely replace the trumpets and tape thgem up to prevent objects falling down the throats.  Removing the rear Cam cover is just a case of removing the three bolts pictured and then carefully sliding it out through the wheel well, its a tight fit against the frame but just slides past with a bit of wiggling!
	First problem, how to drain the fluid out of the system? Having removed the rear cam cover on the rear of the engine You can see what could best be described as a large wing nut (see photo, this the view looking from just forward and under the brake disk), this is a plug in the water jacket that you use to drain the coolant. simply loosen this to allow the coolant to flow out . I used a funnel and hose to collect the water, and prtected the surrounding area (CV joint Gators,etc) with a few plastic bags spread out.
	Then remove the jubilee clips on the manifold/down pipe junction and prise apart the pipes, some coolant may be left in the diagonal pipe that runs to the lower front of the engine, but not too much.
	Now that everything is drained I removed the tensioner on the air conditioning belt, this may not be necessary but it does improve access and I used the oportunity to clean up and repaint the wheel of the tensioner.
	Next remove the smaller hose from the expansion tank. I then plug up all the apertures with rag to stop things crawling inside.
	Remove the three bolts that hold the top of the manifold on, and simply remove the top part, taking care not to damage the gasket, I managed to successfully reuse mine.
	Now you have access to the pump itself, loosen all of the nuts first and then remove the bolts before finally removing the nuts from the studs completely.
	This is the hardest part of the task, and it nearly caused me to give up and get it trailered to a garage but after many hours pondering I figured out how to get the bolt past the forward cam cover. With an open spanner, and what seems like a million twists of the bolt, you get the bolt to the position I have it in the photo below, i.e. the bolt is completely unscrewed from the threads put can't be pulled out because it snags on the forward cam cover. If you have, and you've undone all the other bolts and nuts, you may want to skip down 3 photo's and Remove or loosen the jubilee clips that hold the main hose on top of the engine. this will allow you to move the whole water pump unit and its housing to the rear slightly, only a few milimetres are needed, and then this allows you to pull the bolt out just clearing the forward cam cover. hoorah! This is an out of sequence picture that shows the whole assembly that can be pulled rearwards to allow the bolt to be removed.
	Now you can prise off the pump, this took a lot of effort using a wide bladed scew driver, but be careful not to damage the aluminium of the pump or the housing. the gasket will be ruined and you'll need a new one or try using some liquid gasket when you come to reassembly.
	You should end up like this
	If you haven't already done so, Remove or loosen the jubilee clips that hold the main hose on top of the engine.
	You can the get the whole manifold off the engine so that you can clean it up. I attached the new/repaired pump to the manifold with the studs/nuts before attaching to the engine.
	Reassembly is the reverse procedure:
	This is the newly installed pump prior to refitting the cam cover! I spent quite a lot of time cleaning the area even though normally its hidden from view. Don't forget to check all the hose connections before refilling the system with coolant. Then bleed the system thoroughly following the manuals instructions.
	source: http://www.scottmakin.co.uk/Ferrari308_WP_removal.htm   

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay area - Ferrai 355 Service Changing the Rear Dampers - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma 707-334-3700

How to Change the Rear Dampers

If you have a leaky rear damper then the only cure is to replace it. Here's a guide showing you how to do it. There are various ways you can get hold of a replacement: Buy new from Ferrari Buy used from the second hand market Take yours off and send them back to Bilstein to be refurbished. You'll probably find the last of these is the most cost effective but it will take the most time. See below for the procedure to follow to swap your rear dampers over. Note that dampers should be replaced in pairs otherwise you'll destroy the handling. Now, onto the how-to: 1. Jack up the car at the rear, put it on axle stands, and remove the rear wheels. 2. Remove the black panel inside the engine bay which covers the top of the shock absorber. There are three allen bolts to unfasten then it lifts away. Be careful when you remove it - there is a clip holding the cable for the red stepper motor which electroncally adjusts the damper. Carefully slide the cable out of the clip then you should be able to remove the panel and put it to one side.   3. Remove the red stepper motor by first pulling the small clip from just below it, then the motor just pulls off vertically. Tuck it out of the way; there is no need to disconnect it.   4. Remove the wheel arch liner at the radiator side of the wheel arch. There are several self tapping screws around the edge and across the middle. You will need to undo one of the nuts holding on the diffuser underneath because the bolt it uses is attached to the liner you are removing. 5. Grab your pair of spring compressors and tighten them around the damper until the spring is just loose. I had to modify the pair I bought because they were too long for the spring - I just chopped a sizeable lump off the bolt so they'd fit in. Once the springs are compressed, spray the damper body liberally with WD40 all over the threaded portion. Get plenty in and around the spring platform. 6. Undo the nuts holding the top of the damper in place but don't remove them entirely. 7. Undo the nut and bolt holding the bottom of the damper in the upright. It's a 19mm socket on each end. On my car they were very tight but my impact wrench did the job with ease. If you don't have air tools you're gonna start sweating at this point. Don't remove the bolt from the damper at this stage; just put the nut and washer to one side.   8. Slide a jack under the brake disk and give it some support. Use a piece of softwood or similar between the jack pad and the brake disk. 9. Undo the nut and bolt holding the hub in place through the end of the wishbone. Remove this entirely and let the jack support the weight. 10. You're now ready to remove the damper - remove the nuts from the top side, then let the jack down a little so the hub can tip forward towards you. Remove the damper bolt and make sure you have hold of it properly because it will fall downward. By tilting the hub toward you, you should be able to persuade the bottom of the damper past the top of the hub. Take note that there are two washers either side of the damper and these will probably fall on the floor when you take out the damper.       11. Once the damper assembly is removed from the car you can remove the top hat, bump stop, and finally the spring. To remove these just undo the nut in the top of the damper and slide everything off. You'll be left with the damper body with the spring platform still attached. Take note of where the spring platform is located on the damper body.       12. Getting the spring platform off the damper might be easy or hard. They have a habit of welding themselves to the damper body and this is why you hit it with WD40 earlier. The spring platform consists of two aluminium rings which are locked against each other. To separate them you need to rotate them away from each other on the damper. This is best done with a pair of C spanners. I had to modify one of the pair I bought because the radius was too small but once done it did the trick. Somewhat annoyingly I was able to get the first pair undone without the proper C spanners but ended up having to go out and buy a pair anyway because the second damper was a lot worse. This is probably because the first damper body was nicely lubricated due to the fact that it was leaking! Once you've separated the two rings from each other they both unscrew off the bottom of the damper.   13. You can now begin reassembly. Put the spring platform onto the damper - large ring on top, smaller locking ring underneath. Put them in the position you took note of earlier. 14. Slide the still compressed spring onto the body, insert the bump stop, and reassemble the hat onto the top of the damper. Then just put everything back in reverse. Don't forget to put the washers onto the bolt when you re-attach the damper to the upright, and use the jack under the brake disk to help get everything lined up, and make sure that you leave the spring in a position where you can still get to the spring compressors to unfasten and remove them.     source: http://www.the355.com/mambo/content/view/36/29/

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay area - Ferrai 355 Service Schedule - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma 707-334-3700

Servicing schedule Your F355 will need servicing on an annual or mileage basis, depending upon how much use it is getting. The recommended minimum is an annual service, but if your car is covering sufficient mileage it may require servicing due to miles covered rather than time. There are several types of service that the car will need: A annual 'lube' service - which includes changing of the usual fluids such as oil, brake fluid etc An annual plus additional work that requires doing every two years or at certain mileages whichever comes first A major service - Cambelt replacement every 3 years or 50,000km whichever comes first. The detail about what is required when is included in the table below. This information was transcribed directly from the back of an F355 owners manual. Distance covered is shown as kilometres with miles in brackets. Main Operations 10,000 30,000 50,000 70,000 90,000 110,000 1 Change engine oil and filter ● ● ● ● ● ● See annual service 2 Change gearbox/differential oil ● ● ● ● ● ● Every two years 3 Check tension and wear of alternator/water pump, A/C compressor and power steering control belts (change if necessary) ● ● ● ● ● ● Replace in any case every 3 years 4 Check sparking plugs (replace if necessary) and ignition connections ● ● ● ● ● ● 5 Change timing belts Every 50,000 km and not over 3 years 6 Blow-by connection integrity check     ●     ● 7 Check cooling system connections and hoses ● ● ● ● ● ● 8 Check injection system connections and piping ● ● ● ● ● ● 9 Inspect air injection system, pump, pipes and connections ● ● ● ● ● ● 10 Replace filter charcoal     ●     ● 11 Replace fuel system filter   ●   ●   ● 12 Replace oxygen sensors       ●     13 Check air cleaner elements (replace if required) ● ● ● ● ● ● 14 Check carburation, exhaust level and suction tank sealing ● ● ● ● ● ● 15 Gasoline circuit pressure sealing check     ●     ● 16 Check exhaust system bypass valve efficiency     ●     ● - Tighten screws, nuts and bolts (including those on the exhaust system), connections, clips and strips in general ● ● ● ● ● ● 17 Check level of brake/clutch fluid (possible bleeding) ● ● ● ● ● ● See annual service 18 Check level of fluid for power steering (possible bleeding) ● ● ● ● ● ● Replace every 2 years 19 Inspect brake system: pipes/hoses, calipers, connections. Check efficiency of warning lights on dashboard. ● ● ● ● ● ● 20 Inspect wear of braking surfaces (discs, pads). Change if necessary ● ● ● ● ● ● See annual service 21 Check brake pedal free travel and handbrake operation (Adjust if necessary) ● ● ● ● ● ● 22 Check suspension part tightening ● ● ● ● ● ● 23 Check steering components, joint protection and boots on the steering rack, steering levers and on the axle shifts ● ● ● ● ● ● 24 Check car setting (adjust if necessary) ● ● ● ● ● ● 25 Inspect air conditioning system (replace coolant  and filter every 2 years). Check oil level in compressor. ● ● ● ● ● ● 26 Check and lubricate controls and adjusters in general, hinges, doors, bonnet and engine cover ● ● ● ● ● ● - Check correct operation and securing of the seats and seat belts ● ● ● ● ● ● 27 Battery: check connections, loading conditions and absorption ● ● ● ● ● ● 28 Check generator absorption and charge     ●     ● - Check headlight aiming ● ● ● ● ● ● - Check chassis and box-type panels (possible new treating) ● ● ● ● ● ● Every two years - When the work has been carried out, check tyre pressure and their condition, inspect wheel rims (for possible scratches), check the indicators on the dashboard, the lights and stop lights and then road test the car. ● ● ● ● ● ● - After the road test  make sure that the wheels are tightened. ● ● ● ● ● ● Annual Service The annual service consists of the following checks and changes: Change engine oil and filter Replace brake/clutch and power steering fluid Inspect wear of braking surfaces (discs and pads) Battery: Check connections, loading conditions and absorption. Check tyres and rims condition Emission level check at exhaust Road test source: http://www.the355.com/mambo/content/view/26/29/

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay area - Ferrai 348 Tips - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma 707-334-3700

348: Insist on a Stack of Receipts

“Magnum, P.I.“ made the Ferrari 308/328 instantly recognizable, but by 1989, the design was aging. Its replacement, the 348, boasts modern electronics, adequate a/c and world-class performance, but initially electronics were a nightmare, with defective ECUs, over-taxed alternators, and recalcitrant starters. Early cars had a weak transaxle, requiring three major gearbox updates.

 

1989 Ferrari 348

The 348 flywheel has 30 parts, including springs and washers packed in grease to dampen the engine’s harmonic vibrations, a nightmare to disassemble.

 

Early targa-tops had leaky front top seals that improved marginally through continual factory updates while all 1989–93 348s had rear suspension geometry that would go into snap oversteer, a problem cured in 1994.

 

While the engine is sound, the 348 is the only Ferrari with a single serpentine cam timing belt, further complicated by a weak (or overworked) water pump and a belt tensioner bearing. The long belt also makes degreeing the cams complicated. Major service is an engine-out operation, starting at $7,000.

 

The 348 Spyder introduced in 1994 had more leg room, an improved 2.7 Motronic engine system, thicker castings on the rear wheels—giving two inches of rear track offset—and improved high speed stability. An after-market computer chip and Tubi exhaust will give 340 hp, offering cheap performance —at least in the Ferrari world. When 348 shopping, run fast from any car which hints at deferred maintenance.

 

source: http://www.ferraris-online.com/pages/article.php?reqart=SCM_200609_SS

 

 

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay area - History of the Ferrari 312 P - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma 707-334-3700

Throughout the 1950s and well into the 1960s Ferrari was extremely successful with evolutionary sports racing cars. The V12 for example in the 330 P4 Le Mans racer of 1967 was still closely related to very first Ferrari engine designed some two decades earlier. The gradual development had resulted in bullet-proof machines that dominated sports car racing for many seasons. In 1966 the small manufacturer finally lost their Le Mans stronghold to the might of the Ford Motor Company. Despite valiant efforts, the 1967 edition again was a prey for the American manufacturer. Shortly after the race the sport's governing body, the Commissione Sportiva Internazionale (CSI), announced drastic rule changes that rendered Ferrari's cars obsolete for the following season. Enzo Ferrari was furious at the sudden changes and announced that his cars would not compete in the 1968 World Championship. Building a brand new car would take up considerable resources and Ferrari felt it was better spent on the ailing Formula 1 effort. So the team sat out the championship in 1968 for the first time in many, many years.

Following the new CSI regulations, the championship was open for Group 4 and Group 6 racers. Group 4 was open to sports cars with a maximum displacement of five litres and a production minimum of 50 examples. The Group 6 prototype racers that Ferrari and Ford had fielded the previous seasons now had their engines restricted to three litre. Using a much enlarged version of the P4 engine, Ferrari did build a new sports racer in 1968 to campaign in the popular and lucrative Canadian-American Challenge (Can-Am), which was run under the very lenient Group 7 regulations. Dubbed the 612 P, the new Ferrari was not ready until the very last race of the season and the little tested machine failed to make an impression. To attract more teams and manufacturers back into sports car races, the rules were changed once more for 1969, although in detail only. The homologation limit for Group 4 cars was lowered to 25 cars, while the limitations on Group 6 cars like windscreen width and a mandatory spare tire and luggage compartment were all lifted. This opened new opportunities for Ferrari as they could use the 612 P type chassis in combination with the V12 engine and gearbox from the Formula 1 car to create a brand new Group 6 prototype racer.

In good Ferrari tradition, the three litre V12 engine was based on the highly successful sports car engine. Although with its cutting edge twin-cam, four-valves-per-cylinder heads, it was easy to mistake it for a brand new engine. Its sports car roots made the sturdy V12 a bit too heavy for Formula 1, but an ideal unit for endurance racing. Ferrari quoted a figure of 420 bhp for the fuel-injected engine in endurance trim. Mated to a five speed gearbox the engine was bolted to a downsized version of the 612 P semi-monocoque chassis. Used for both the company's sports racers and Formula 1 cars, the so called semi-monocoque used a space frame reinforced with aluminium sheets, while a full monocoque was constructed from sheets alone. Completed late in 1968 the first '312 P' was fitted with a cut down, high down force Spyder bodywork. Although the off-set driving position gave the truth away, Ferrari's new sports racer could easily be mistaken for a Formula 1 car fitted with an all enveloping body. The first 312 P (chassis 0868) was shown to the public in December of 1968 at a press launch at Hotel Fini in Modena.

From the outset Ferrari planned only limited racing activities in 1969 with chief engineer Mauro Forghieri and considerable resources dedicated to the design and development of a new flat-12 Formula 1 engine. The first and at that point single 312 P was damaged during testing so Ferrari could not compete in the opening round of the championship at Daytona. Fully repaired, the 312 P was entered in the Sebring 12 Hours for Chris Amon and Mario Andretti. Facing a contingent of lighter, but less powerful Porsche 908s, the new Ferrari impressed with a pole position just ahead of a Group 4 Lola T70. Mechanical problems hindered the 312 P during the opening stages of the race, but once sorted the blisteringly quick Ferrari sped to the head of the race. A collision with another car damaged the nose and despite repairs the car suffered from overheating for the remainder of the race. Nevertheless the 312 P managed to reach the finish in second overall and first in class. A second chassis (0870) was built and sent to the next championship round at Brands Hatch. Fitted with highly effective wings and spoilers, the Ferrari again claimed pole and eventually missed out on the victory because of a puncture in the opening stages and a lengthened throttle cable towards the end.

While the new 312 P was competing at Brands Hatch, the first example was at Le Mans for the official test weekend. Designed for high downforce tracks, the Spyder body proved to be a big handicap on the long Mulsanne straight. That, however, was the least of Ferrari's concerns as Porsche rolled out the all new 917, which was built to the Group 4 regulations. In a creative interpretation of the regulations the German manufacturer opted to build 25 examples of their new prototype racing car. Powered by a 550 bhp flat 12 engine, it looked set to eclipse all that had come before. Despite the poor performance at Le Mans, both 312 Ps excelled at the high speed Monza track during the next round of the World Championship. The two cars qualified on the front row due to their superior speed through the high speed corners. Unfortunately the track's banking was particularly rough on the Ferraris' Firestone tires and both cars had to make unscheduled stops from the lead for fresh tires. Both Ferraris failed to reach the finish with the new car dropping an engine and the original 312 P crashing dramatic fashion after its tail came off at high speed due to accident damage incurred earlier.

With just one 312 P left, Ferrari opted to skip the Targa Florio and reappeared at the Spa 1000 km round of the World Championship. Here the 312 P Spyder first encountered the Porsche 917 in racing conditions. Now fully homologated as a Group 4, the slippery Porsche easily clinched the pole. The 917 was no force during the race and despite another unscheduled pit stop to repair damage from an accident early in the race, the 312 P finished a credible second. Next on the agenda was the Nürburgring 1000 km, which saw an even slippier version of the Porsche 908 Spyder. Compared to the Ferrari, the eight cylinder engined Porsche had about 60 bhp less, but made most of that up with its lighter weight and better fuel efficiency. With six Porsches on the grid, the sole Ferrari was also outnumbered. The 312 P again qualified on the front row and during the race formed the only opposition for the fleet of Porsches. Unfortunately the V12 engined machine ground to a halt just halfway through the race, just after Amon had broken the lap record. The mount of the ignition box had failed. Porsche won the race and the Championship.

To cure the drag problems at Le Mans, Ferrari's engineers had developed a very clean Coupe body around a shortened 206 SP Dino windshield. The second car was re-bodied and a third chassis (0872) constructed to replace the car that was wrecked at Monza. As Ferrari had officially entered chassis 0868 and 0870 in the race, the new chassis was stamped 0868 to prevent administrative problems. The Porsche 917 again showed its superior speed during qualifying, but few believed they had a real chance in the race. The first retired in dramatic fashion in the opening lap in a hefty crash, taking the live of driver John Woolfe. Aboard one of the 312 Ps, Amon hit debris from the Porsche and also saw his race end during the first lap. The surviving Ferrari proved to be fast and for a change more frugal than the Porsches. Sadly a silly problem again prevented the Ferrari from reaching the finish. This time it was a retaining nut of the gearbox that had vibrated loose, causing an oil leak. The problem was solved twice, but eventually the gearbox failed altogether. At 5:30 a.m. that Sunday morning the 312 P program, as far as Ferrari was concerned, ended.

The arrival of the Porsche 917 had shifted the balance and Ferrari knew that the 312 P could not be a real competitor once the Germans had cured the big beast's problems. Immediately after Le Mans, Ferrari began the development of a Group 4 racing car. Dubbed the 512 S, it was used by the Works team during the 1970 season. Both 312 Ps that had raced at Le Mans were sold to Ferrari's American agent Luigi Chinetti's North American Racing Team (N.A.R.T.). The first chassis was repaired, fitted with an empty 612 P engine and handed to Pininfarina, who turned it into the 512 S Concept shown in Turin late in 1969. In the hands of N.A.R.T. the two 312 Ps were not able to fight for overall victories, but they scored several class victories in major races like the Daytona 24 Hours and the Sebring 12 Hours. They were eventually eclipsed by Ferrari's new flat-12 engined 312 P, more commonly referred to as the 312 PB, which was raced in the Group 4 class with great success from 1971 onwards. In the few months the 312 P was raced by Ferrari, it showed great promise. With a more substantial program, it is not inconceivable that the beautiful Ferrari could have been a race winner.

Featured is the third and final 312 P produced. It was raced by N.A.R.T. until 1971 by which time it was fitted with a new Spyder body. Subsequently, it was disassembled and the drivetrain used in a new car that was commonly referred to as the 'Flying Shingle.' In the early 1980s all original parts were reunited and reassembled. The Sebring and Daytona class winning machine was owned for a long time by well known Ferrari collector and racer Peter Sachs. He completely restored '0872' in the late 1990s and only showed it at very rare occasions since. More recently a Swiss enthusiast bought the car and completely rebuilt it to racing standards. Equipped with a Spyder body, it was first raced late in 2007. To be eligible for the Ferrari Classiche certificate, the car was subsequently converted back to its original Coupe configuration. It was first shown in this state during the 2008 Monterey Historic Races and Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. It was a rare opportunity to see a 312 P in action as the other example, owned by Pierre Bardinon since 1970, has not been seen in public for many years.

 

source: http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/cg/1049/Ferrari-312-P-Berlinetta.html

 

 

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay area - History of the Ferrari 250 LM - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma 707-334-3700

With the introduction of the uncompromising 250 GT, Ferrari's stronghold on GT racing was solidified exponentially. First introduced in 1954, the LWB (Long Wheel Base) 250 GT dominated, the introduction of SWB (Short Wheel Base) 250 GT late in 1959 took that domination one step further and with the 250 GTO of 1962 the domination was complete. Times were changing, the introduction of the mid-mounted engine in the 1950s changed the outlook of the sport and was set to leave many dominating models obsolete, including the 250 GT(O).

Never quick to respond to technical innovations, Ferrari built their first successful mid-engined racer in 1961, the F1 championship winning V6 engined 156. The first mid-engined sports cars were also powered by V6 engines and it was Ferrari's arch-rival Maserati (Tipo 63) that beat the Maranello based firm to building a sportscar with a mid-mounted V12. Based on the V6 engined racers, Ferrari's first V12 exploit proved an immediate success. Powered by the 250 GTO derived 300 bhp engine, the 250 P smashed the Monza track record on its 1962 debut. At the 24 Hours of Le Mans of a year later, two 250 Ps finished first and third, with a 250 GTO finishing second and the rest of the top six filled with Ferraris as well.

To continue the GT dominance, Ferrari realised that, after ten years, the successful 250 GT series had to be abandoned for a completely new car. Logical base for this new car was the all-conquering 250 P, which would be perfectly suited to GT racing with a couple of modifications. Most notable difference between the 250 P and the new 250 LM was the addition of a roof. For the chassis tubes a higher gauge of steel was used for extra rigidity.

At the 1963 Paris Motor show the 250 LM made its official debut, but it wasn't until 1964 that the production version was ready. Main difference between the show car and all other 250 LMs was the engine displacement. The 250 LM still used the GTO derived 3 litre, in the production cars, however, a bored 3.3 litre version was used. In good Ferrari tradition it should thus have been called 275 LM, but for commercial and homologation reasons the 250 was used.

Homologation was a keyword in the LM's sporting history. With the GTO Ferrari had managed to avoid the 100 car production minimum, by claiming it was just a re-bodied 250 GT SWB, which it definitely was not. In 1964 the FIA was quick to deny the homologation request for the LM, as they didn't think Ferrari would ever produce 100 LMs. Reluctant to give up, Ferrari continued development work on the LM. However, only 32 250 LMs were eventually constructed, proving the FIA's assumptions right.

With the GT homologation refusal, the 250 LM was only eligible to race in the prototype class, where it was pitched against more sophisticated rivals from its own stable. This didn't stop the 250 LM from winning and in 1964 ten victories were scored out of 35 entries. Five 250 LMs were entered in the 1965 24 Hours of Le Mans by privateers. When both Ferrari and Ford's prototype effort failed by poor reliability, the NART entered 250 LM stepped in to record its finest victory. Two of the other four finished in the top six as well, in second and sixth.

Although the 250 LM was not as successful as its predecessors, it did manage to secure Ferrari's last overall Le Mans victory and to this day it has a special spot in many Ferrari fan's hearts. With only 32 built, the 250 LM is extremely rare and valuable, for this reason a number of replicas were built. To add to the confusion original serial numbers were used for the replicas. One thing is for sure, more 250 LMs exist today than originally left the factory.

Featured is s/n 5909, which spent most of its time in the United States. After being run for a short time by Luigi Chinetti's NART, it was owned by Bob Grossman of 'Scuderia Bear', who raced it throughout 1964. After its active career, 5909's most prominent achievement was winning the 1975 Pebble Beach Concours d'Eleganze. Fortunately the current owner is keen on taking it out racing again. It is pictured here during the 2005 Tour Auto, where it was one of the stars of the event.

source: http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/136/Ferrari-250-LM.html

Ferrari Service and Repair Bay area - History of the Ferrari 330 P3/4 - Angelo Zucchi Motorsports - Sonoma 707-334-3700

The Ferrari 330 P3/4 was one of the legendary contenders in the ferocious battle between Ford and Ferrari in the mid to late 1960's. Also called the 412 P, the Ferrari received its 330 P3/4 designation for sharing key components with both Ferrari's 330 P3 and 330 P4. Those latter two cars were instrumental in Ferrari's 1960's racing efforts, and were raced by the Ferrari works team. The 330 P3/4 was sold to private teams such as NART for competition purposes.

The 330 P3/4 can easily trace its heritage back to the first of its series, the 330 P. The 330 P was the first Ferrari to be pinned against a Ford GT40. When Ferrari and Ford first fought at Le Mans in 1964, the 330 P filled the podium while no Fords finished. Ferrari's 1-2-3 finish only encouraged Ford to put more time and money into developing its GT40, though, and the American giant prepared for a triumphant return.

While neither Ferrari and its revised 330 P2 nor Ford and its 7.0-liter GT40 realized much racing success in 1965, the following year was to be exciting and eventful. Ferrari replaced the 330 P2 with the P3 variant in 1966. Featuring such improvements over the preceding model as a stiffer chassis, ZF 5-speed transmission, and fuel injection, the 330 P3 was an impressive racer on paper. However, Ferrari could not provide enough essential development time for the gestation of the P3. Reliability problems resulted, and Ford was able to turn the tides entirely. All three spots on the Le Mans podium went to Ford in 1966, with no Ferraris completing the race. 

Embarrassed and angered, Ferrari put forth all of the resources the little company could muster into the following variation of the 330. The P4 was ready for the 1967 racing season, and it was clearly the only car that could bring back some fortune to Ferrari. With a 36-valve cylinder head atop its 4-liter V12, the P4 made 450bhp. The nose of the car was elongated to reduce aerodynamic lift, a feature that also succeeded in making a beautiful car look even better. Though a Ford GT40 managed to place first at Le Mans for 1967, Ferrari placed its P4 racers in second and third places at the same event. 

Ferrari's success was more notable at the 1967 Daytona race. Here, on Ford's home turf in the United States, Ferrari dominated. The prancing horses from Maranello captured a podium-filling finish. Two Ferrari 330 P4 cars took first and second, while the NART-entered 330 P3/4 took third.

The 330 P3/4 used a P3 engine mounted within a P4 body. Though not as impressive as the mechanically-advantaged P4, the P3/4 was a reliable improvement over the P3 that experienced success in the hands of skilled private teams. Its 4-liter V12, with a 24-valve cylinder head, produced 420bhp at a lofty 8,000rpm. The car was able to reach 200mph at Le Mans. Its 5-speed transaxle incorporated a limited-slip differential to better traction and handling. Independent suspension with coil springs at all corners combined with rack and pinion steering to offer excellent handling, and ventilated disc brakes for all wheels ensured that the P3/4 could scrub speed with authority. All of these mechanicals were wrapped within a tubular frame and surrounded by panels that used aluminum extensively for lightness and rigidity. Chassis 0844 was converted to an open-air P3/4 Spider for Can-Am racing.

The 330 P3/4 was a successful racer that provided private teams with a precise instrument with which to race and to win. It may not have been tied in with the famous drivers of Ferrari's renowned factory team, but its engineering and styling were both as beautiful as the rest of the 330 P series.

Sources:http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/414571,17221/1967-Ferrari-330-P3/4_photo.aspx#photo

Dron, Tony. 'Ferrari P3/4.' Classic Driver Web.5 Aug 2009. .

'Lot No. 220: 1967 Ferrari 330 P4.' RM Auctions Web.10 May 2009. .

By Evan Acuña